Oct 8th - Initial Island Recovery

I have so many things I want to say.  This week I focus on the news that Dominica and her people continue to recover and rebuild.  Hurricane Maria ran directly over the island with 160 mph winds as a category 5 on Sept. 18 and damaged or destroyed everything on the island, the entire island, the entire nation.  The agriculture sector, critical to the economy, was damaged as much as buildings - everything was hit with the full force of the storm.

I don’t want to say Maria completely destroyed the island because it did not.  The island and her people are too strong to be taken out by just a cat 5.  Yes, terrible damage all over.  90% structures significantly damaged or destroyed.  Wind and rain torn virtually every leaf off every tree even if the tree was left standing with broken branches.  My school was destroyed, and my roof was partially damaged; but my landlady’s roof was fine with limited damage to windows and doors.  The island was damaged, not destroyed.

I don't want to minimize the damage.  I just don't want to focus on it.  I want to talk about the strength of the island and the people and the dramatic recovery so far, while recognizing that requirement for much more of recovery and improvement in the future.

The island, already sending out green leaves on her remaining trees and in other ways, is recovering.  She has a tall, strong body.

With the support of the international community, along with the preparation before the hurricane, and hard work of residents and volunteers after the storm small island nation of about 72,000 people has already come a long way in the recovery effort.  It is getting better each day.  True, most people are still in survival and basic recovery mode – but things are improving.  

Realistically, everyone knows it will take more than days, weeks, even months to fully recover.  This is an opportunity to do things better for next time and I know the people, with help, will become stronger to face the next storm…

The government is currently focused on recovery of Roseau as the center of business and government as well the location of the major hospital.  Clearing streets and supplying water and electricity is well underway.  The city is not 100% but banks have been operating for a week.  Some stores are open with limited hours.  At least one grocery store in Roseau has already reopened with limited hours and so some people can begin to replenish some stocks.

Another focus is on Portsmouth and the Ross Medical University that hopes to reopen in January.  Essential services to that area and student housing repairs will have high priority and visibility.

Tete Morne - my community

I’m not going to give a complete picture of the island; other sites have that high level and detailed information.  I want to pass along first-hand information about my community of Tete Morne.

Hiking to get fuel before the road was open

Transportation

After the storm landslides blocked roads and flooding broke bridges making vehicle travel impossible from Roseau to communities in the south including Grand Bay, Tete Morne, Soufriere, and Scott's Head.  

The road all the way to Tete Morne, was cleared, at least single lane, and diversions were made through rivers as of Sept 27^th .  Travel is restored but still difficult.  Clearing and full repairs will continue.  Relief supplies and faster recovery work can now make it up and over the first the mountain to Grand Bay and up another mountain to get to my community of Tete Morne.

Unfortunately, my favorite bus was totaled by the storm but other buses are traveling again – limited schedules but transportation recovering as people go back to work and to shop.

Making a bypass for the Pichlin river

Relief and food supplies

People in remote locations like Tete Morne are basically on their own for now.  Jaceline has worked on some recovery and repairs of her place using scrounged material.  Relief tarps or other non-food items distributed to other communities have not reached Tete Morne and other remote communities.  

But still, roofs and homes are being repaired even on top of the mountain as best they can.  People are also helping the elderly and others with cleanup and repairs and providing water and whatever they can.   People helping people.

Tete Morne has not received much relief aid, not nearly enough yet.  So, like many other places, my village would benefit from better distribution of relief supplies of food, water, and non-food items.    

From my 9 years as a local Red Cross Disaster volunteer I know mass care is difficult.  Relief supplies are never distributed fast enough or perfectly fairly, but relief supplies are coming to remote locations and most people who receive some are sharing with others in need.  Relief distribution could always be better.  

This is not said as a complaint but just a fact.  It is a common issue and reality after every disaster large and small and this was a complete nationwide disaster, on an island.  Taking that into account the government and relief organizations should be recognized for doing a tremendous job in incredibly difficult conditions.  People are grateful for the help and don't want to complain.

Most people would have definitely been in a better position with food, water, and other supplies in their homes if they had thought that Maria might hit as a category 4 or 5, rather than the expected 1 or 2.  Maria was still a category 1 storm early Monday morning - just hours before it hit as a 5.  The storm strengthened fast, so much faster than expected.  The lessons being learned now will enable better preparation and better resiliency for the next one.  I’m happy to hear the acknowledgement that climate change has changed things.

Communications

Communication services are also recovering.  Dominica has two cell phone networks – Flow and Digicel.  Initially, Flow had more services and I was back online in Roseau quickly after the storm.  Digicel has been quicker to reconnect Tete Morne cell phone and data services – so communication has returned.  Flow service, the one Peace Corps normally use, should return soon.

Electricity

As mentioned, some places already have electricity after a complete breakdown of the grid.  Re-electrification of remote Tete Morne is going to take time but it is near major trunk line to larger communities on the coast so it might come back sooner than expected.  

If I’m lucky enough to return I’ll bring a number of items include a camping solar panel or two and a much better plan to so I and my community can be more resilient with energy.  Living without electricity is part of many people’s Peace Corps experience – including some volunteers in Ghana.

Water

Tete Morne, being on top of the mountain, must pump water up to a tank rather than use a  spring feed gravity system common in lower communities.  Therefore without electricity, rain catchment (it is rains a lot) or other methods might be needed for some time.  With water filters, boiling, and bottled water, people have safe drinking water now.  Again, I know from experience that Peace Corps volunteers live without running water in many other places.  

Handing out water

Refilling people's water supplies

The people are working hard to help themselves and others as best they can.  They are getting international support and volunteers are on the ground now.  The island and the people will need more support and more volunteers in the future and I intend to do my part.

So this message is a testament that island with a tall body and her strong people are recovering.  It is also one of hope that I can go back to help sooner rather than later.

Administrative hold

I'm currently at home in St. Louis on administrative hold.  I will post a description of this later.  But briefly - Peace Corps is gathering information, working, and analyzing to see if the conditions are right for volunteers to return sooner rather than later.  I trust the process and the agency to make a good decision.  I trust them with my life - they are that good.


Love always,

John